Showing posts with label fashion. Show all posts
Showing posts with label fashion. Show all posts

26 June 2020

What do world art curators do in lockdown?


Rachel's desk (and coworker) while working from home.
A guest blog from Rachel Heminway Hurst, Curator of World Art, Royal Pavilion & Museums, Brighton & Hove and MEG events officer.  Rachel tells us what she's been up to in lockdown, if you'd like to let us know about your lockdown experience then get in touch!

Towards the end of March I was gearing up for spring conferences, research visits, holiday activities,busy juggling multiple project commitments, with core collections work responsibilities that are on-going and seemingly never ending at times, and will no doubt feel a familiar scenario for most museum staff! When all of a sudden we went into lockdown. I left my office as usual on Monday 16th March thinking I would be back there the next day and haven’t set foot in my office, the museum or the stores since. It still felt like winter then, and now we are enjoying full summer weather and have just passed the longest day of the year. 
 
Before the lockdown, I was feeling quite overwhelmed by the number of commitments ahead of me, when all of a sudden everything just ground to a halt. One by one events were cancelled, researchers and project partners stopped emailing, our museum postponed moving to Trust on April 1st 2020, and all the competing deadlines just melted away and everything was ‘postponed’, and not just work, it felt like life had been postponed. 

Like many people in the UK, I developed a mild case of the corona virus during the first week of lockdown, and spent 6 weeks on a bit of a rollercoaster of good and not so good days. My head was foggy during this time and I could only concentrate on one thing at a time and gave up trying to multitask and carry on working as normal. I decided that this was an opportunity to focus on just one task, and finish something I had been working on without much success since 2016. 

I usually work from home one day a week and keep a lot of digital work files on my home computer, and I also have a freelance colleague and project curator, Kathleen Lawther, who is tech savvy unlike myself! So we set about completing a web resource that we have only had the time to work on in a piecemeal way up to now. The lockdown allowed me to focus clearly on one project and one goal, and this felt really liberating.

Myself and Helen Mears, Keeper of World Art have been working on the Fashioning Africa Project since 2015, we have been collecting garments, textiles and art that reflect fashion and style in post 1960s Africa and Africa UK diaspora, this work had been guided by an external Collecting Panel. It turned into a huge but extremely rewarding project, including working with numerous partners and donors, hosting many events and papers given at conferences, some objects from the new collection have featured in displays at Brighton Museum, and some objects will be going on loan. But creating our web resource has at last given us a platform on which to share the new collection and most importantly the stories that accompany these objects.


Working with the Collecting Panel meant we were guided by people who are specialists in African Fashion both through personal experience and through academic training. Their input enabled us to source objects that reflected the personal styles and stories of individuals as well as designers and specific communities. Our focus was on building a collection where individuals voices and stories were told, and we collected photographs of donors wearing their outfits, testimonies, quotes, pamphlets and pieces of creative writing that all accompanied the outfits. As well as film footage and oral histories.

We have collected over 400 objects and although we haven’t yet finished professionally photographing them all or processing all of the accompanying media, creating the web resource has enabled us to provide access to a large number of them with their accompanying stories. If it were not for being in lockdown and being able to work on this in a sustained way and daily over the last few months, creating this resource would not have been possible, and this would have been a missed opportunity. I also feel as if I would be letting people down, people trusted us and offered their objects and stories and wanted to share these. When finishing an interview with Ewe kente weavers and twins Fred and Richmond Akpo in Ghana, I asked if there was anything else they wanted to tell us or share and they said ‘We just want people to know we are here and what we do’. 

This work has also afforded me the time to make contact with donors and partners to check information with them, and through this contact, a chance to check in and catch up with one another. So yes other things haven’t got done, which is hugely frustrating - we don’t have collections database access at home and haven’t been able to access the stores or facilitate events and the uncertainty over budgets and resources means other projects are delayed. But I feel that I have really benefitted from this period of time to take stock, to focus on this important work, gather everything together and process it, and get something finished, and I am really pleased to be able to share the results. The question is now, when things begin to pick up and gather momentum, how do I sustain this focus and clarity? I do know that I will make a concerted effort to try and plan in blocks of time to enable this type of important work to happen.  


Rachel Heminway Hurst, Curator of World Art, Royal Pavilion & Museums, Brighton & Hove.

8 April 2019

Exhibition review: Object Journeys: Fashioning Africa, Dr Chris Spring, Curator and Artist



African textiles of all sorts – and from all parts of the continent – have been an ongoing interest of mine for many years, so I was keen to be involved again with Brighton Museum’s Fashioning Africa project, in this case working with Tshepo Skwambane and Edith Ojo on an Object Journeys collaboration.

I love the whole concept of exchanging ideas, stories and works from the collections between museums, community groups and other individuals and organisations. Memories, experiences and expertise are shared in a convivial yet dynamic relationship which helps to create spectacularly interesting displays.

Tshepo and Edith are both from the local community in Brighton and are also on the advisory group for Fashioning Africa at Brighton Museum. Rachel Hemingway-Hurst (curator of World Art at Brighton) introduced them to me and to Helen Wolfe on their first visit to the BM textile stores (see photo). It was obvious then that they shared my passion for textiles, but it was a passion closely linked to an intimate knowledge of the significance of particular textiles in Africa, more specifically in the townships of South Africa and among the Yoruba people of Nigeria.

Tshepo wanted to tell the story of South Africa’s townships through the textiles and beadwork worn by the diverse peoples living there:

Tshepo Skwambane, Curator, ' Township Journeys' display
Townships are places where a real sense of community exists, and a multitude of cultural styles and identities are evident. This display reflects this diversity through presenting objects associated with Khoe-San, Ndebele, Tsonga, Tswana, Xhosa and Zulu groups. Many members of these communities live in townships today.

I want to challenge and dismantle stereotypes about Africa and Africans. Apartheid enforced separate and defined communities, but you can’t stop interaction between people and ideas.

I had recently co-curated, with John Giblin, the South Africa show at the BM, and amongst the pieces selected from the Royal Pavilion and BM collections, Tshepo chose two which had particular memories for me. The printed textile which you can see in the case behind him, which combines the South African flag with images of the World Cup, I came across in the ‘Elephant’ textile market in Maputo, Mozambique probably in 2008 or 2009 with the tournament just around the corner. Another piece, this time from the Royal Pavilion collections, was very similar to one which I collected for the BM in Jo’burg (see my African Art Close Up, page 59) and sparked my interest in this classically South African textile with its fascinating history and global connections. Tshepo takes up the story:



This printed cotton textile featuring bold geometric designs is called shweshwe. This type of indigo and brown patterned textile originated in Europe and was brought to South Africa and worn by German settlers in the 19th century. A similar textile was presented to King Moshweshwe I, founder of the Basotho nation, by French and German missionaries. Named after the King, Shweshwe was quickly adopted by Sotho and Xhosa people. It became so popular that a factory opened in the Eastern Cape area in 1982, introducing a range of new colours. It is still a popular fabric in South Africa today.”





Edith chose a particular style of Yoruba narrow-strip weaving known as aso-oke to tell her story: 
Edith Ojo, Curator, 'Aso-Oke a celebration on style,' display.



‘Aso-oke is a hand-woven textile originally made and worn by Yoruba people from south-western Nigeria, but now widely worn across the whole country. From maker to market, the fashion practices and culture that surround aso-oke are dynamic, vibrant and enduring.



It says ‘party’, that’s what aso-oke says to me! I love the spectacle and performance that surrounds aso-oke. It’s so culturally vibrant and constantly evolving



In the late 1980s (!!) when I first started writing about African textiles, I remember being intrigued by the Yoruba garments which included locally produced sanyan silk. Edith chose a classic sanyan-style aso-oke outfit from the Royal Pavilion collections which would have been worn by the father of the bride – you can see it in the case directly behind her. It was donated by Mr Martin Sholagbe and was worn at his daughter’s wedding in 2009. Edith described it in detail:



It consisted of an agbada (gown) and fila (hat) woven with white and beige cotton threads and lurex in the embroidery. These are paired with a buba blouse worn underneath and sokoto trousers made from a complimentary lace fabric. Sanyan is an enduring style, commonly woven with beige and cream threads. In the past natural beige silk threads were used, making the textile affordable only to the wealthy. Despite the variations of aso-oke today, the sanyan textile remains a favourite.



This was a wonderful project – a real team effort - and a great way to sign off from my long career at the BM before moving on to my permanent studio at The West London Art Factory in Park Royal: www.chrisspring.co.uk
'Fashioning Africa, Object Journeys' project team.
 All images used in this post are ©Royal Pavilion & Museums, Brighton & Hove.