Thursday 12 February 2015
Leeds Museum and Galleries are regular lenders to the annual exhibitions on Cook related themes at the Captain Cook Memorial Museum in Whitby. This years theme is 'Fashion and Fibres: Island Dress in Polynesia' and on Thursday morning Emma Bowron, the conservator at Leeds Museum DiscoveryCentre, and I drove to Whitby in the museum van with a European style Samoan
barkcloth dress probably dating from the late 1800s. The drive takes around two
hours. Arriving in the attic exhibition space we met long-standing friends, MEG
members, and ex-colleagues, Barbara Woroncow and Adrian Norris, who were there
helping Sophie Forgan and other Whitby staff with the install. Barbara and
Adrian are active trustees of the Captain Cook museum. In the large case where
the Samoan dress was to be laid gently on a calico covered plastazote
slope, a
1970s Fijian barkcloth hung at the back, which was one of the last gifts
Barbara’s father hunted down for her in a bargain sale, a while ago now.
The
other item in the case is a beautiful modern reconstruction of the tapa
waistcoat that Mrs Cook made for her husband, but never finished. The partial garment, Cook died before it was
finished, survives in Australia. This new waistcoat is by Alison Larkin.
It has a linen back which laces up the centre, and fine silk floral embroidery
enhanced with tiny silver coloured sequins or spangels. There are real pockets
under the flaps.
We stayed to help with the install of a stunning tapa poncho
cloth from Kew, and to watch the others installing two Maori flax cloaks on
loan from the Great North Museum. The
Leeds Samoan girl’s dress is made from tapa coloured with traditional designs,
and tailored with a yoke, collar and sleeves and buttons down the front. It may
have been made for an indigenous girl, or perhaps for the child of a European
missionary or official. It is rare for such dresses to survive. A
good photograph of it can be found on the exhibition page of the Cook museum. The dress was transferred to Leeds Museums in 1964 from
Leeds Corporation Works Department. The notes say: Formerly in the house of Mrs
Bell, cleared by Corporation Housing Department. Items brought to the museum by
Mr Fitzgerald of Housing Dept. The material seems to have been brought home by
E.R.G. Bell (husband or father in law?) and includes a sketch map of Samoa and
its islands. I’ve tried to trace ERG
Bell, but no success so far.
The exhibition opens this Saturday, 14 February and will run
until the Captain Cook Memorial Museum closes for the winter at the end of
November.
Antonia Lovelace
Curator of World Cultures
Leeds Museums and Galleries
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